Matthew Luczy from Wine Advocate (now owned by the Michelin Guide) recently wrapped up his annual visit to the Santa Cruz Mountains. Here’s what he had to say…
The cool temperatures and long hang times of 2023 played beautifully into the hands of John Benedetti, who presented a superb lineup of vibrant, transparent Sante Arcangeli wines from across the Santa Cruz Mountains. While there is a notable absence from the lineup in the signature Split Rail vineyard-designate due to excessive mildew pressure that dramatically lowered yields, this unfortunate situation positively impacted the Integrato bottling, which received the remaining fruit, making up fully 50% of its volume. The standouts this year are the lithe and energetic Coast Grade and the more exotic and textural Lester, with the Saveria occupying a lovely middle ground between the two. Also notable are a pair of 2024 releases: a dramatically overperforming rosé, as well as a new Small Lot Chardonnay cuvée, an offshoot of the Split Rail Chardonnay.
2024 Chardonnay, Split Rail Vineyard (tasted only 1 week after bottling)
Matured for 10 months in a mix of 20% new barrels and an equal measure of concrete eggs, the 2024 Chardonnay Split Rail Vineyard exudes a lifted, citrus and herbal-driven energy throughout, with dried flower aromas and pronounced oceanic notes with further aeration. The palate is racy, tense and svelte before concluding with a mouthwatering, mineral-driven finish grounded by a pleasant touch of textural power. 93 points.
2024 Pinot Noir, Integrato (tasted only 1 week after bottling)
The 2024 Pinot Noir Integrato is composed primarily of the Saveria, Sunny Knoll and Lester vineyards in Carrolitos, with smaller portions of Split Rail and Coast Grade making up the balance. It leads with a dark-fruited nose accented by cola and tobacco aromas, followed by a silky, rich palate that remains admirably poised and lifted through the perfumed, saline finish. 92 points.
2024 Chardonnay, Sangicomo Roberts Road, Petaluma Gap (tasted only 1 week after bottling)
A new addition to the Sante Arcangeli lineup is the 2024 Chardonnay Sangiacomo Roberts Road Vineyard, which occupies the richest spot in the roster, yet it sacrifices none of the clarity and poise that defines the house style. It aged for 10 months in a mix of concrete eggs and neutral barrique and opens with a waxy, round bouquet with a pleasant, lees-derived richness, followed by a supple, pure palate and an even-keeled, nuanced finish defined by a creamy richness that intensifies with time in the glass. 92 points.
2023 Pinot Noir, Coast Grade Vineyard
The 2023 Pinot Noir Coast Grade Vineyard is among the highlights in the Sante Arcangeli stable, opening with a soaring, expressive nose of red fruits, floral accents and saline overtones. This energy is further emphasized on the palate, with a lifted, buoyant texture that displays remarkable dimension despite its lithe frame, culminating in a succulent, nimble and ethereal finish that lingers with a persistent minerality. A stunning example of Ben Lomond Mountain’s distinctiveness is captured in high fidelity. 95 points.
2023 Pinot Noir, Lester Family Vineyard
Composed of clonal selections 122, 115, 2A and 667 fermented with a touch of whole bunches and matured in 25% new wood, the 2023 Pinot Noir Lester Family Vineyard is another highlight in the superb Sante Arcangeli portfolio. Opening with a radiant yet composed bouquet of crystalline red fruits, dried spices, redwood duff and underbrush aromas, the palate is equal parts silky, refined and broad. It closes with a lush core of perfectly ripe fruit energized by a racy, high-toned energy. This is close on the heels of the Coast Grade bottling, and it has the stuffing to possibly even eclipse it with time in the cellar. 94+ points.
2023 Pinot Noir, Saveria Vineyard
The 2023 Pinot Noir Saveria Vineyard opens on an initially introverted note, slowly revealing herbal, savory and red-fruited aromas that generate additional underbrush and forest-driven notes with aeration. The palate is deep, juicy and succulent, transitioning into a lifted, saline-driven finish that is grounded by an elegantly creamy core. In the Sante Arcangeli lineup, I found this to occupy a delightful midpoint between the deep, textural Lester and the more ethereal Coast Grade. 94 points.
2024 Rosé of Pinot Noir
I was quite taken with the 2024 Pinot Noir Rosé, which hails from Split Rail and Coast Grade vineyards and was aged for six months. It leads with a squeaky-clean and pleasant nose, featuring orange rind, white cherry and crushed stone aromas. The palate is eminently silky, vibrant and precise, closing with an exceedingly structured finish that lingers with additional mineral notes. 92 points.
